Paula Dorf Eye Primer & Brush

I've reduced my eye primer arsenal to exactly two products: the smooth and creamy Kanebo Sensai Eye Base and the little miracle that is Paula Dorf's Eye Primer.

Paula Dorf's primer comes in two shades, #1, which is the one you see here and the much darker Deep. I was worried at first about the texture, as it reminded me at first glance of the one from Lancome I tested a while ago and didn't like one bit. But as usual, Paula Dorf delivers and this primer is a lot more creamy than it appears. You only need a minuscule amount of product, and a pat of the brush on the pan and then on your lid is enough. The primer is easy to spread on the skin and is as cooperative as they come. It takes seconds to get both eyes primed and ready.

The Eye Primer Brush is basically a flat paddle-shaped synthetic brush. It's about twice as wide as standard cream shadow or concealer brush and the hairs are packed more densely, which I guess is the reason the brush picks exactly the right amount of primer. It's quite firm but gentle on delicate lids and I'm glad I have it as a dedicated brush for my primers, though I'd say you can probably use a good concealer brush just as well.

The smooth surface created by the primer is eye shadow-friendly. I never have any issues with blending over it. But the real magic is the way it keeps makeup in place and even more than that- the primer helps every eye shadow I've used over it maintain its finish for at least 14 or 15 hours. As long as the application is decent, my eye makeup lasts and looks just-applied fresh until I come after it with cleansers.

Bottom Line: a must-have.

Paula Dorf Eye Primer ($25) and brush ($28) are available from Henri Bendel in NYC (Pam, the resident Paula Dorf  SA/MUA is not only delightful but also among the very best I've had the pleasure to meet, so I highly recommend calling the counter). Also on pauladorf.com.

Photo by me.

Paula Dorf And Vincent Longo Planning a Big Comeback

Here's some good news for those of us who love indie cosmetics brand headed by top makeup artists. When done right, with care and artistic vision, such brands are absolutely amazing in the colors, looks and tools they offer. Naturally, small privately owned businesses run some serious risks in terms of consumer fickleness, supplier reliability, consistent distribution and the economy at large.

Paula Dorf and Vincent Longo are two such brands and makeup artists. I like both and absolutely adore Dorf, so the WWD article announcing Longo and Dorf are back on their feet with serious financial backing, distribution plans and new products is thrilling. Soon we will see Paula Dorf and Vincent Longo back on some prestigious shelves, hopefully gaining new devoted fans.

Info and photo from WWD.

Laura Mercier Tightline Cake Eye Liner Charcoal Grey

If you read KarlaSugar's post about the new and reformulated version of Laura Mercier'scake eyeliner, now called " Tightline Cake Eye Liner", you know this classic product no longer works by mixing it with water and now requires an activator that contains a unique polymer and is supposed to make the liner very long lasting. Karla and my swatches show exactly what happens when you try to used it the old way. This of course annoyed Laura Mercier fans to no end. All of a sudden a $22 eyeliner becomes a $42 one, and that's a serious price increase.

Last week I got the Charcoal Grey Tightline Cake Eye Liner as a GWP when I ordered the new gel lipsticks. Of course, the GWP didn't include the activator. But I actually own two similar products- one from Illamasqua and one, my favorite, from Paula Dorf. Paula Dorf's Transformer has been a staple for years: a single drop makes every eyeshadow into a waterproof eyeliner. I gave the Transformer a try- put a drop on the back of my hand, dipped an eyeliner brush to dampen it, swiped the brush along the edge of the cake liner to collect the pigment and applied. It worked- both for the swatch and on my eyelid. I'm wearing it today and the line is perfect. I also love this rich gray color- it's very flattering against brown eyes.

The best thing about using Laura Mercier's Tightline Cake Eye Liner with Paula Dorf's Transformer (other than that I already have a bottle) is the amount of product you get for the same prize: Laura's Activator is $20 for a 1/4 oz (7.5ml) while Paula's is the same prize for a 0.5oz.

Bottom Line: Great color but Laura still owes us an apology.

Laura Mercier Tightline Cake Eye Liner in Charcoal Grey and other colors ($22) is available from Laura Mercier counters, Sephora and the company's website. As mentioned above, the mini I used was a GWP.

All photos are mine. The shaggy white rug is Buffy.

Paula Dorf Sheer Crease Brush

Paula Dorf Sheer Crease Brush has that elusive Goldilocks syndrome: not too big, not too small, not too dense, not too floppy... It's just right. Like all Paula Dorf brushes, the handle is shorter than most full sized ones, but it's thick and sturdy enough to feel very balanced and not make me miss the bigger power tools. It does an excellent job defining and shading the crease and just above, fits perfectly in the socket and feel soft and luxurious. The brush is dense enough to pick the right amount of color and deposit it exactly where you need it. It's fluffy but not floppy, so there are no accidental smudges or harsh lines. I especially love it for a neutral and light look with an understated but defined creased- it sheers the color to perfection.

Compared to other brushes with a similar purpose or shape, the Paula Dorf falls right in the middle size-wise. It's denser than Laura Mercier Pony Tail and picks more color. I have the short handle version, so not sure if the full size one is different. Chanel #12 is the closest on in size and performance, though it's a tiny bit larger and less pointed so I prefer it for blending and working on larger areas. It also not as soft as Paula's. NARS #12 is considerably smaller and more suitable for very precise work, while the Shu and Edward Bess are here mostly for size comparison. While Edward uses his eye brush for everything, including defining the crease, for me it's my favorite blending brush. Nothing come close in this regard but less so as a crease brush. Shu Uemura 8HR is more of a brush for all seasons but is far less dense and works better for more intense colors.

Bottom Line: an essential.

Paula Dorf Sheer Crease Brush ($30) is available from dermstore and pauladorf.com.

All photos taken by me.

Paula Dorf Eye Contour Brush

Some of you might remember I've been trying to replace an old (and discontinued) angled contour eye brush for a while now. The perfect one is yet to emerge, but I've gotten pretty close with Paula Dorf Eye Contour brush. Actually, Paula Dorf's brush is probably better than my tattered Sephora one- it's softer, the hair is of great quality and it's the perfect size for the job- contouring, defining, fitting in the crease.

This Paula Dorf Eye Contour Brush is on the short and dainty size (like my old Sephora). The hairs aren't as dense as I might have liked for perfect detailed contouring, but it still performs well. I probably should reach for it more often than I do, but there's something about it that's not quite as satisfying as I'd like. I know I'm picky and this is a great brush, but I guess all the quality time I've been spending with my Edward Bess eye brush has made me expect the world. I want a heavier brush with a heftier handle- sort of like a power tool, I guess, only girly and glamorous.

I guess that's my (not really justified) issue with this Paula Dorf brush. It's a great replacement for my deceased brush, it performs well enough, but it's not a power tool.

Bottom Line, to quote Sarah McLachlan: I know I could love you much better than this.

Paula Dorf Eye Contour Brush ($28) is available from pauladorf.com.

All photos by me.