Guerlain Chant d'Aromes

She's so lovely.

Guerlain Chant d'Aromes is a floral, somewhat aldehydic dainty creature, with rosy cheeks, nice demeanor and wholesome habits. It's like the innocent young teenager sister of Chanel No. 5 who is too sweet to spy on her older sister's coming and goings and tell on her to their parents, but secretly she entertains the thought of reading No. 5's diary (she knows where it's hidden), so the potential is there.

Chant d'Aromes is petal soft, a little peachy pink and abstract- there's no one flower that claims the spotlight or displays any assertiveness. It just wafts in the air around me, making me feel pretty and ready for spring. There are no rough edges, no extra sweetness, none of the Guerlain familiar sex bomb in a pastry shop accord. Just delicate flowers, peach fuzz and tender new leaves.

Guerlain released Chant d'Aromes in 1962 and I can see how it fits in that time. Think about Peggy Olson buying her first real perfume after she got promoted. She wouldn't have dared to wear Shalimar, Joan's perfume, right? Instead she'd go for the soft and nonthreatening but still very French Chant d'Aromes.

According to Dr. Luca Turin in the Guide, Chant d'Aromes has been through a couple of major reformulations, so neither the newest juice nor my somewhat older bottle of EDT are the original thing (in who knows how many ways). All I can say is that it's a happy, wearable and pretty perfume that doesn't last more than a couple of hours on me but while it's alive gives me an uplifting sillage.

According to Guerlain's international website, Chant d'Aromes is around and well in the 100 ml bee bottles. Finding it in stores is a bit tricky (Bergdorf and major Guerlain boutiques have it), but searching online might still bring something up (just make sure to buy from a reputable seller).

Art: Solace by Pino
Chant d'Aromes vintage ads- 1964 (via paperpursuits.com) and 1967 (via Savoir Faire).

Notes (from Guerlain website): citrus, honeysuckle, gardenia, jasmine, ylang-ylang, sandalwood, vanilla.

Guerlain Lingerie de Peau (03 Beige Natural)

I no longer believe in holy grail products or in a "perfect foundation". Our skin changes on a daily, weekly and monthly basis, and once you become obsessed with the ideal texture, color and coverage you realize one needs to mix it up, use different products, blend and adjust. This means I'm rarely blown away by a single foundation from the very first sampling. Guerlain Lingerie de Peau is one of the rare face products that get as close to perfection as possible.

The SAs at my Bloomigdale's were helpful in choosing a shade and provided me with enough samples to make me confident I was using the best one. Beige Natural 03 is truly a perfect match for me with my weird undertones and everything. But the story of Guerlain Lingerie de Peau is more than a color selection. It's about the lightest texture that provides the most coverage I've ever seen in a liquid product. Lingerie de Peau doesn't just even out the skin, it actually makes it look airbrushed smooth, hides imperfections and discoloration the way a much heavier cream product might struggle to do. I know I'm gushing, but really, when I need/want a full coverage this Guerlain foundation is my go-to product at 99% of the time I don't even need to do any color adjustments because Beige Natural matches me so well.

My favorite brushes to use with Guerlain Lingerie de Peau are various natural (usually goat hair) ones, either round headed like Shu Uemura 18 or a flat top like my trusty Stila 21. I also like Sephora Platinum #55 (yes, review coming soon). It really gives a beautiful finish.

Bottom Line: Perfection.

Guerlain Lingerie de Peau ($57, 1 oz) is available from most department stores. You can usually get samples of the colors you're considering.

All photos are mine.

Guerlain- Guerlinade EDP (1998)

The yearning for spring continues.

Usually when we talk about "Guerlinade" we refer to the sweet floral-powder-to pastry shop accord most of us recognize as Guerlain's signature that runs with minor variations through many Guerlain perfumes and causes us to classify them as "very Guerlain" or a-typical Guerlain. One learns to identify this Guerlinade pretty quickly once he or she becomes familiar with both the classics and modern Guerlains. But Guerlinade is also the name of at least two perfumes (in several incarnations from the house), and today we're talking about the limited edition one from 1998, which was released to commemorate both the house's 170th anniversary and the 200th birthday of Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain, the founder.

The 1998 Guerlinade was created by Jean Paul Guerlain, fourth generation perfumer. His interpretation of what Guerlain is all about didn't take the most traveled road towards vanilla-fest. Instead, Mr. Guerlain wants to show us what 170 years in classic Paris look, smell and feel like. The result, surprising or not, is very very floral.

Guerlinade is mostly lilacs, later joined by sheer jasmine, a touch of linden and some powdery iris. The official notes also mention tonka bean and vanilla, but this is not what the perfume is about. Guerlain's Paris is so abstract and ethereal it has no room for the sensual pleasures of macarons, almond cookies or a buttery croissant. This is all about dreamy nostalgia, sheer curtains in a Parisian room letting the scent of spring in through the open window and gently filtering the light.

I don't wear Guerlinade very often. It's a bit too dainty for me and, let's be honest, I don't consider it among Guerlain's true classic masterpieces. My Paris is a lot more sensual, robust and aggressive than this daydream in lilac, but right now I'm in the mood for delicate blossoms and pale cheeks, so Guerlinade works nicely.

The 1998 limited edition of Guerlinade came in the presentation box you see above (that's the photo of my bottle). The outer box has the names of all four generation of Guerlain perfumers and pretty illustrations of 19th century scenes. The short-lived 2005 reissue smells the same to my nose (I just drained a sample) and came in the standard bee bottle.

Guerlinade bottle photo by me.
Art: Lilacs in a glass with apple and lemon by Jacob Meyer de Haas, 1889  and Les Lilas, Temps Gris by Claude Monet 1872.
Photo of blooming lilacs in Paris by *Kelso* on Flickr.

Guerlain Nahema (VIntage Extrait de Parfum)

Count on Guerlain to make one of the most beautiful and sensual rose perfume (and later, at least according to some rumors, to maim and reformulate it). My main complaint about most rose fragrances is that they're too literal, too cliché, too much like a "thing" and not a "person". Nahema is not like that at all.

When I wear Nahema I get a tactile feeling- something between the fuzziness of a peach skin and the smoothness of a rose petal. Smelling this 1979 Guerlain creation makes one understand why the image of  rose petals strewn on and around the bed  is romantic and sexy. It's usually red roses, but Nahema is a deep orange rose (my favorite, actually) with shades of peach and nectarine. It also makes me think of orange tulips, though the most distinct floral note I smell is  hyacinth- it's both sweet and bitter.

The sort-of-kind-of rose is very sweet, almost dessert like. It's a Guerlain, after all, so you must have some pastry in there. Maybe a buttery croissant with apricot preserves. I can't help it- it's that rich vanilla/tonka/benzoin thing in Guerlan perfumes that gets me very time. It's so sensual, especially in the very late dry-down when you no longer know if you smell skin or perfume. My very old bottle of Nahema parfum also offers some creamy sandalwood, the good stuff from the 1980s, which I'm guessing is the part that has changed most in recent batches.

I don't have a current sample of Nahema, so I can't comment on any changes. As far as I know, some of the other notes like Peru balsam, if they came from a natural source, are also on IFRA's blacklist, not to mention various rose molecules like damascone. All I can say is the vintage juice is achingly beautiful, romantic, nostalgic and sexy, while not filling up the room with a rose potpourri sillage. And that's a very good thing.

Top image: Orange Blog
Nahema ads from 1980 and 1981: paperpersuits.com

Guerlain Tonka Impériale

I've been living with Tonka Impériale for nearly a year now, almost since Guerlain launched it as their newest perfume in L'Art et la Matière series. I guess I didn't feel like reviewing it since just about everyone else did, and it looks like perfume lovers who also enjoy orientals and in particular the Guerlain way of churning them simply love this well-composed, slightly boozy gourmand. Basically, it's sweet but not too much, complex enough so it doesn't bore us, pays enough homage to the classic Guerlinade without being redundant or too literal in this "back to basics" approach.

It's very obvious that Thierry Wasser, Guerlain's house perfumer, has a real respect to the house's tradition. And to its loyal fans and customers who deserve better than Idylle. I love wearing Tonka Imperiale on all its honeyed tobacco, incense, almond cookies and, of course, vanilla-tonka base. This perfume is softer and more subtle than the list of notes suggests. As L'Heure Bleue wearers can tell everyone, a pastry accord doesn't need to smell like Jessica Simpson. It should smell like Paris, and Tonka Imperiale has that French thing going for it while still offering snuggly comforts.

The tobacco, hay and vague incense-woodiness (I get both more in the middle before it dries down into vanilla) keep Tonka Impériale from getting too sweet and too obvious. Instead, it's warm, sexy and has just enough sillage to make a great date night perfume. It also has all the addictive qualities that make a signature scent. I wouldn't be surprised to learn that some less promiscuous oriental fans are adopting this perfume as their one and only. In another life or a parallel universe it could have been such a candidate for me. As things go in the real world I'm just happy to have it as part of my rotation.

Tonka Impériale ($235, 75ml EDP) is available from Guerlain boutiques around the world (those that stock the  L’Art et la Matière series), Saks flagship in NYC, Bergdorf Goodman and online at neimanmarcus.com (look for the fragrance trunk show category). As always, The Posh Peasant and The Perfumed Court sell samples and decants of various sizes, so please don't buy blind.

Photo of Lee Miller by George Hoyningen-Huene

Guerlain Arsène Lupin Dandy

Jean-Paul Guerlain created his two Arsène Lupin men's perfumes, Dandy and Voyou, as an homage to the Gentleman Thief Arsène Lupin, who is a French literary hero. While Voyou didn't move me much and I have yet to explore it beyond the first unmemorable testing, Dandy is a spectacular perfume. I don't know about the French fictional burglar, but this is something I could imagine on Cary Grant in his To Catch A Thief role as John Robie. Between his suits and romancing Grace Kelly in the French Riviera, the elegance and sleekness of Dandy couldn't have been a better match.

Now, don't get me wrong- this Guerlain creation from last fall is as modern as it comes. It doesn't smell like anything from 1952, and despite the promise for an "oriental leather", the leather note is decidedly subtle. The opening notes are quite aromatic and peppery. It's almost misleading in a way and doesn't even hint on being a Guerlain. Only when the deeper and darker notes join the party and things become more about woody and incense can I get the connection. There's a super elegant violet leaf thread that makes me think of older masculine Guerlains, such as Mouchoir de Monsieur. Dandy is much easier to wear, though, and feels less powdery (I think the husband described MdM as "stuffy" when I made him try it) and tinged with something green .

The dry-down is all warmth, incense and mellow leather. I get why it's marketed as a masculine, but honestly, Guerlain could have easily labeled it as unisex, shared or whatever. It's not macho in any way and would appeal to many a woman. I can't get enough of Dandy and doubt anyone would raise an eyebrow at a woman wearing it. Kind of like sneaking into Cary Grant's closet and borrowing a shirt, a scarf and his fragrance, then pairing them with skinny jeans or a little black dress.

Guerlain Arsène Lupin Dandy ($235, 2.5oz) is available from Bergdorf Goodman and Guerlain boutiques around the world.

Images:
The New Mayfair Edwardians by Norman Parkinson, 1950
Cary Grant in To Catch A Thief, 1950, imdb.com

Guerlain L'Or Makeup Base

Guerlain L'Or Makeup Base looks both beautiful and scary in the bottle. It has tiny (real) gold shavings suspended in clear liquid- not exactly your typical cosmetics product. My first encounter with L'Or was when I had my makeup done by Guerlain national makeup artist, Pamela, so I didn't have to think too much about application and how it might or might not work. I loved the result and it proved to be an excellent primer, so when it was time for me to start testing and experimenting on my own I didn't waste too much time just staring at the gold flecks swirling in the bottle.

Here's what you need to know: Guerlain L'Or is, indeed, a makeup base/primer. It doesn't contain silicone, so those sensitive to dimethicone/polydimethylysiloxane can use it happily. It contains glycerin and is scented, though, so take that into account (I love the way it smells). The gold particles don't actually appear on the skin- they melt  when you touch them, so L'Or Base isn't actually shimmery, glittery or sparkly. Any errant flecks can be easily smoothed. The base settles nicely onto the skin and locks in your moisturizer- my skin feels happily plumped every time I use L'Or, even on a crazy cold and dry winter day or night. The suppleness lasts for hours, so that's a great thing on its own.

It takes about five minutes for the full effect to show- skin looks more even and there's a very subtle glow to it, like you just had the best facial. The smoothness created by L'Or helps foundation and any other makeup you use stick and stay in place. It might not be as cement-like as silicone primers but I find it more efficient than the luminizers  I've tried (Chanel, Cle de Peau, Shiseido). I've used this Guerlain primer several times over the summer and had great results- my makeup didn't melt or migrate.

Bottom Line: Golden.



Guerlain L'Or Makeup Base ($70, 1.1oz) is available from Sephora and your favorite Guerlain counter. A free press sample was sent for my consideration by the company.

All photos by me.

Guerlain Meteorites Brush

Since I'm already in a Guerlain mood today, let's talk about their pretty Meteorites brush. It has a pink head of hair, which is quite cute and is the perfect size to fit in the Meteorite canister, which is too small for some premium Kabuki brushes (like Nars Botan, which I might discuss next week).

There's one important thing to note about Guerlain Meteroites brush- the goat hair is a little coarse, more than many face brushes. That's what makes this brush perfect for to grab the right amount of products from the pearls and the blend their shades so perfectly, the way it's supposed to be. Of course, this also means that if one has super-sensitive skin that's prone to redness, this might not be the best brush for you.

I like the Meteorites brush and use it often. I'm also fond of small details like the velvet pouch and the scalloped ferrule. It's more of a nice-to-have than a must, especially if you already have a good brush that performs well with your Meteorites powder (that one is a necessity). For sensitive skin and just about anyone and any use, I strongly recommend the Edward Bess Luxury Face Brush. It's a perfect multitasker that performs with every face product you throw at it, and is also small enough to fit in the Meteorites tin.

Guerlain Meteorites Face Brush ($36) is avaialble from every decent department store as well as from Sephora.

Photos by me.

Guerlain Spiritueuse Double Vanille Is Alive And Well- Breaking News

I just received a firm confirmation from Guerlain USA PR team that their  Spiritueuse Double Vanille is not being phased out or discontinued. Not that the rumors made any sense. Spiritueuse Double Vanille is such a popular perfume that sells very well (and a newish Guerlain formula, unlikely to clash with IFRA), but we're all prone to discontinuation panic. So, no hoarding necessary for now.

Photo: Guerlain Facebook page

Guerlain Secret de Purete Cleansing Milk

It's a good thing the GWP tube of Guerlain Secret de Purete Cleansing Milk I have is reasonably generous in size, because once I get going it's hard to stop. Very hard to stop.

This milky cleanser is of perfect consistency (I have a pet peeve about lotions that are so runny they can't stay on one's face long enough to do the job) and feels heavenly on skin. And it removes and disposes of every last drop and fleck of dirt and makeup- no matter how much I have piled on or what bizarre color experiments I've been conducting- 60 seconds of cleansing and it's all gone. The product makes the makeup removing ritual into an almost spa experience right here in front of my mirror. It has something to do with Guerlain's tendency to make wonderfully scented products- both their skin care and makeup. Of course, not everyone like it, but if you have dry skin and you're not averse to scented products, this is a great one.

Guerlain Secret de Purete Cleansing Milk ($48, 200ml) is available from most decent department stores.

Photo: Corbis

Guerlain B64 Bee Limited Edition Rouge G Le Brilliant

I honestly thought that I was done with the 2010 Holiday collections on all their sparkle. Then last month I took a young cousin to Bloomie's and somehow we found ourselves at the Guerlain Counter. I already had a couple of Guerlain's holiday items and loved them, but then I came face to face with the limited edition Rouge G Le Brilliant in B64, Bee. It had to come home with me.

Rouge G lipsticks are fabulous from their beautiful packaging to the way they wear- the right balance of shine and color. In Le Brilliant Bee everything got kicked up a notch (now try to erase the mental image of Emeril Lagasse in a purple lipstick). There's more pigment, more golden shimmer and it stays on longer than the other Rouge G lipsticks I own, which are already pretty tenacious for such a moisturizing lip color.

The color is rich purple. It looks more violet in certain lights but reflects some red undertones in others. It's quite complex, thus looks very rich and pretty on the lips and I find that it has quickly become a favorite evening lipstick. The texture and luminosity make this Rouge G pretty low maintenance- I can get away with quick touch ups that don't include a liner and a brush.

Botton line:  There's a very cute bee embossed on the inside mirror. Who could ask for anything more?

Guerlain B64 Bee Limited Edition Rouge G Le Brilliant ($46) is available from decent department stores.

All photos are mine.

Guerlain Toner Super Aqua Lotion

Josephine here is not the only one who likes the good stuff. My latest skincare obsession is hydrating toners that not only make skin look and feel fresh, they also moisturize. My nightly routine includes the excellent Lancome Secret de Vie Toner, but in the morning I often prefer something a little more invigorating. This is where Guerlain Super Aqua Lotion (a confusing name, for sure) enters the picture.

Super Aqua Lotion is not as thick as the gel-like Lancome and definitely feels a little more like a toner. But it's still gentle and moisturizing while doing its job to refresh and lightly tone the skin before I start loading it with serums and creams. I don't know much about the desert rose complex Guerlain is using in their Super Aqua line (other than it gives me an earworm- see Sting's song below), but the toner smells nice, feels good and my skin is happy.

Guerlain Sper Aqua Lotion ($48) is available from select department stores. The travel size I've been testing was part of a GWP.

Photo by me.