Versace- Gianni Versace 1982 (vintage EDT)

Can I just say how much I hate referring to perfumes from the 1980s as "vintage"? With this out of the way, we can move on and talk about the 1982 original Versace feminine perfume, originally named Gianni Versace (not to be confused with Versace Woman, Versace, Versace Homme and who knows what else). It's one of those perfumes you smell and know with certainty they don't make them like this nowadays. Well, of course they don't- Gianni Versace is a full-bodied floral chypre, loaded with oakmoss. Good luck finding anything that smells even remotely that wicked.

The opening of Gianni is decidedly green and aldehydic. It's what some would call "dated" and others would proclaim "classic". I think it's charming but try to avoid the husband's company for the first five to ten minutes, just in case. Later it becomes full-on floral, almost extravagantly so, and you can smell and see each and every flower in the blend. Almost touch it really, as though it was an elaborate floral carving on your wall. No, this Versace perfume is definitely not for the meek. It enters the room like a diva, commanding attention and giving everyone else the stinkeye because they cannot possibly measure up to her standards.

Eventually things calm down a little. A wood-patchouli-oakmoss with a touch of leather. It's not any less femme fatale and still wears the eye shadow of the 80s, but you can feel and see the bone structure of this perfume. It's not quite patrician, but it has its fine moments and is a delight to wear.

Notes (from fragrantica.com):
Top notes are aldehydes, spices, fruity notes and bergamot; middle notes are carnation, tuberose, gardenia, orris root, jasmine, lily-of-the-valley and narcissus; base notes are benzoin, leather, sandalwood, amber, patchouli, oakmoss, incense and myrrh.

Like just about any big perfume from that era (and the designer himself), Gianni Versace has been among the dead for years now. Lovers of chypres and 1980s perfume who happen upon a forgotten battle would do well to scoop it up as it's come harder to find.

Images:
1982 Gianni Versace perfume ad from couleurparfum.com
Debbie Harry for Italian Bazaar by Patrick Demarchelier, 1980
Versace fashion ad photographed by Richard Avedon, 1987

The Hemp Revival

We love ethical fashion and are enjoying the rise and rise of hemp as a fabric. And we think the folds at the back at this Versace hemp-silk evening dress are just luscious!

Versace hemp-silk evening dress

Hemp has traditionally suffered because of its association with cannabis and hippies. Remarkably, the cultivation of the plant has been banned in America since the Fifties.


The fabric is sustainable, lasts longer, becomes softer and more comfortable the longer you use it. Those who suffer from allergies will love it as no pesticides are used in the farming of hemp. 

That’s in sharp contrast to many people's fabric of choice, cotton, which sucks up 50% of all pesticides used in farming in the United States – even though the crop only takes up 1% of farmland.  

In comparison to cotton, hemp is warmer in the winter, cooler in the summer and more durable. More and more designers are being drawn to hemp because of its low impact on the environment. Hemp fibres are known for being highly absorbent, UV resistant, antimicrobial and long-lasting.

It’s no surprise that the vegetarian Stella McCartney is at the forefront of those designers embracing hemp. These smashing espadrilles remind us of the summer days to come.

Stella McCartney's hemp espadrilles

Versace, Donna Karan, Vera Wang, Armani and Ralph Lauren are all dabbling with the fabric. This outfit has all the distinctiveness of the Vera Wang touch. The American designer has used hemp-silk fabric to very fine effect here.

  Vera Wang's organic hemp-silk skirt and bustier

We're also keeping our eye on Enamore who produce eco-friendly underwear.

Linda Loudermilk is one of the leaders in ethical fashion. In fact, Elle magazine have dubbed her the 'Vivienne Westwood of eco'. Here's a sample of some of her work. Delightfully edgy is what we call it.

Designs of Linda Loudermilk, one of the leaders in eco-fashion

It also seems like U2 lead singer, Bono has roped his wife into his attempt to save the world. Ali Hewson has set up her own ethical label Edun.

What do you make of hemp and the ethical fashion movement? Are you keen to adopt it or do you think it is passing fad?