Amouage Opus IV Library Collection

The first time I tested Opus IV from Amouage Library Collection I applied it just before bed and right away though: "oops, cumin!". I was worried the husband might protest and object to sharing his bed and cats with a hefty dose of this spice. But all went well, spouse and felines were not offended and I could keep on wearing Amouage Opus 4 around my nearest and dearest. Which means I've had plenty of opportunities to test it and develop an opinion.

So, do I like it?

I'm not sure.

What I mean is that while I certainly don't dislike this Amouage offering from their Library Collection I cannot say I'm smitten. It's... OK, I guess, which is definitely not what the creators (and the price tag) would demand. I like spicy incense perfumes and Opus IV is definitely a good one. It also feels at least semi-original, thanks to the combination of notes. There's a fruity aspect (not the perfume's shiniest moment, I admit) and a very feminine floral moment that's almost powdery and girly, but not quite. Mostly there's spice and incense that keep things serious and very grownup, except for a somewhat disturbing foody and chewy accord: Dane at Pere de Pierre calls it a bubblegum note, and I sort of agree. It's like the sexy school teacher/librarian who all of a sudden starts chewing in the classroom.

I do like the incense part and think that it's far better done than Etat Libre d'Orange Encense et Bubblegum. That one is cute and trashy, While Amouage Opus IV has some sort of an identity crisis. I'd like it more had it kept the horn-rimmed glasses and pencil skirt. It's a better look for all of us.

Notes (via Luckyscent): Coriander oil, lemon, mandarin, grapefruit, elemi oil, cardamom, cumin, rose berries, rose, violet leaves, peru balsam, labdanum, frankincense, musk.

Amouage Opus IV Library Collection ($325, 100ml EDP) is available from Luckyscent, MiN New York and other authorized Amouage retailers, such as Jacqueline Parfumerie in San Francisco that provided my sample. Amouage is donating fifty percent of the worldwide profits from Opus IV to the National HIV/AIDS prevention and Control Program in Oman.


Photo of Olivia Williams from the movie An Education from hotflick.net.

Amouage Opus III - Library Collection

Opus III from Amouage Library collection is a wonderful big floriental, of the kind that makes my heart race because it's just so perfect. I can't help it- as someone who came of age in the 1980s I'm drawn to the larger-than-life sillage of these perfumes (and also shoes, jewelry and hair). I can pretend to have refined tastes all I want. In the end of the day I'm Alexis Carrington.

As is often the case with this genre, Amouage Opus III is not centered around one defining note, but has more of a rounded character. Still, the elements I smell most clearly, at least on my skin, are broom, assorted spices, a very rich and honeyed mimosa and violet over a somewhat smoky ambery vanilla base. Naturally, this thing has my name all over it.

The violet-oriental base combination brings to mind the classic Guerlain structure. Indeed, there's a powdery vibe somewhere in Opus 3 that makes me think of helitrope. I'm not saying that this is the Amouage answer to L'Heure Bleue, but I'd go out on a limb and say that LHB fans (and old school Guerlainophiles in general) have a good chance of enjoying this jewel of the Library Collection.

The violet note in Opus 3 is one of the longest lasting ones I've encountered since Armani Cuir Améthyste. The violet is as tenacious as the fragrance itself, and that can easily keep going after 24 hours if allowed. Opus III smells like a million dollars, feels plush and creamy and if you have the right skin for some serious wood-vanilla action it's also as sexy as can be. In an almost tasteful way. I can't get enough of this thing.

Notes (via Luckyscent): Mimosa, broom, clove, nutmeg, thyme, violet, jasmine, ylang-ylang, orange blossom, ambrette, musk, papyrus, cedar, sandalwood, guaiac wood, benzoin resin, vanilla.

Amouage Opus III - Library Collection ($325, 100ml EDP) is available from Luckyscent, MiN New York and other authorized Amouage retailers, such as Jacqueline Parfumerie in San Francisco that provided my sample.

Photo of Jane Russel in Hot Blood, 1956, from The Nifty Fifties website.

Amouage Opus II Library Collection

Opus II of Amouage Library Collection is stylish and stylized. There's not a hair out of place or a spot on its expensive shoes. Like every Amouage perfume I've ever tried, The Opus perfumes are so well-made it makes me wonder how so many other brands get away with producing and selling dreck.

The overall impression is of a gender-neutral ambery fougere, crisp and understated. You can't go wrong wearing Opus 2: it's office appropriate, confident and would never distract you from any task at hand. A clean, slightly floral/green lavender with a dry backbone and a smooth dry-down would always smell good. A man wearing Opus II on a date would be well-received and complimented, though I doubt there's any real swooning to be had over this perfume. It's so nice, but not sexy or dramatic in any way. A woman can just as easily wear this Amouage creation and let you know she means business, has great shoes and an investment portfolio better than yours. She might still have an old bottle of Chanel 19 hiding somewhere, but she moved on after grad school. The calm woody incense dry-down of Opus II goes better with the big windows in her new apartment and its minimalistic decor.

I like Opus 2, I really do. It's so easy to wear and smells like a million dollar. But I find it lacking in the soul-stirring department. It's a matter of taste more than anything. I prefer some drama and color in my perfume, some quirkiness and perhaps a sense of humor. The official notes claim there's musk in there, but I honestly can't find it. At least on me, Opus II doesn't show any skin.

Notes (from Luckyscent): Lavender, Absinthe, pepper, pink bay, Jasmine, rose, cinnamon, cardamom, Cedarwood, patchouli, amber, musk, incense

Amouage Opus II Library Collection ($325, 100 ml EDP) is available from Luckyscent, Aedes and other authorized Amouage retailers around the world.

Art: The Gentleman by Craig Alan